Asia 2003-2005

My Itinerary: 460 Nights
Japan (14 nights + 1 on the plane)

December 2003

2003-12-10
All Nippon Airways flight 5 (B777)
2003-12-11
Tokyo (1) — Land at Narita NRT, Tokyo, Japan; 2.5 hour train ride to Higash Kogani; Seaweed noodle soup.
2003-12-12
Tokyo (2) — The longest day; wake at 5:30; Kanda English School; Okachimachi Market; Ueno Park; National Museum (The Gallery of Horyuji Treasures); Yanaka Cemetery; Maranouchi Building; Shinjuku Station; Kabukich (red-light district); Syonben-yokocyan (Pee Street) for yakatori chicken sticks & shishito peppers.
2003-12-13
Tokyo (3) — Eat nato; Nogawa (Wild River Park); soba noodle mill; river walk; Jindaiji Temple; red beancake with green tea; Mataka; Inokashira Park; Kichijuji (maze of markets; oden (fish balls) for dinner.
2003-12-14
Tokyo (4) — Nikko with Kashio; Rinno-ji Temple; Futarasan Shrine
2003-12-15
Tokyo (5) — Random day; met David today and had seafood marinara, akihabara to buy Fuji film (?) fugu photos
2003-12-16
Tokyo (6) — Tsukiji Fish Market and the Sushizanmai Restaurant, Hama rikyu Garden (Garden of the Tokugawa Shogunate), Senso-ji, Kappabashi, knife store
2003-12-17
Tokyo (7) — Random day; was this the day I went into Tokyo on my own and made it back on my own?
2003-12-18
Tokyo (8) — Odaiba, Ginza, Shinjuku @ night, Shibuya,
2003-12-19
Tokyo (9) — Saki Tour
2003-12-20
Tokyo (10) — Mt. Takao; homemade hot pot nabe for dinner
2003-12-21
Tokyo (11) — Kamakura
2003-12-22
Tokyo (12) — Meji shrine, cool walk, ripungi hills
2003-12-23
Tokyo (13) — Emporer’s Birthday and visiting the Imperial Palace.jive
China (58 nights)

December 2003

24
Shanghai (1) — All Nippon Airways flight 919 (B777) Tokyo NRT, Japan to Pudong, Shanghai, China; Jason moves out of his apartment day.
2003-12-25
Shanghai (2)
2003-12-26
Shanghai (3) — Dinner and bowling with Luke, Flora, Jeremey.
2003-12-27
Shanghai (4) — House party with Luke, the punk girl, Jason, the KFC crew, Wang in the 3-piece suit, and the crazy Canadian.
2003-12-28
Shanghai (5) — w/s
2003-12-29
Shanghai (6)
2003-12-30
Shanghai (7)
2003-12-31
Shanghai (8) — New Year’s Eve with Jeremy, Jason, Paul Christonsen, etc.

January 2004

2004-01-01
Shanghai (9) Nanjing Road with Fanta
2004-01-02
Shanghai (10)
2004-01-03
Shanghai (11)
2004-01-04
Shanghai (12) — 上 海苏 州 - depart Shanghai arrive Suzhou; day in Suzhou; 苏 州上 海 - T719 - depart Suzhou 20:13 arrive Shanghai; Car 9; Seat 52; 21.00元
2004-01-05
Shanghai (13)
2004-01-06
Shanghai (14)
2004-01-07
Shanghai (15) — Spaghetti dinner for Fanta.
2004-01-08
Shanghai (16)
2004-01-09
Shanghai (17)
2004-01-10
Shanghai (18)
2004-01-11
Shanghai (19) — Move the washing machine on bike evening
2004-01-12
Shanghai (20) — Even walk with tea sampling and night market
2004-01-13
Shanghai (21) — Epic walk day visiting Jade Buddha Temple, Shanghai Railway Station, and the neighborhoods northeast of there; Walk on the Bund in the evening, and then along Nanjing LU; taxied over to the Shanghai Acrobats @ the Shanghai Centre Theatre 19:30; 1 Floor; 16 Row; 23 Seat
2004-01-14
Shanghai (22) — Walk around Yu Gardens and neighborhood south of there; People's Park walk in the evening
2004-01-15
Shanghai (23)
2004-01-16
Shanghai (24)
2004-01-17
Shanghai (25)
2004-01-18
Shanghai (26)
2004-01-19
Shanghai (27) — Spring festival dinner with Jane Christenson’s family??? This night?
2004-01-20
Shanghai (28)
2004-01-21
Shanghai (29)
2004-01-22
Shanghai (30)
2004-01-23
Shanghai (31)
2004-01-24
Shanghai (32) — Jeremy’s 30th b-day at Windows.
2004-01-25
Shanghai (33)
2004-01-26
Shanghai (34) — Mail home package from the Sheraton Grand Tai Ping Yang 318.00RMB.
2004-01-27
上 海桂 林 Train - depart Shanghai arrive Guilin
2004-01-28
Yangshuo (1) — Fawlty Towers Hotel; sun emerges after 2 months day. Hike around town.
2004-01-29
Yangshuo (2) — Fawlty Towers Hotel; Bike down to all the bridges day; hot air balloon.
2004-01-30
Yangshuo (3) — Fawlty Towers Hotel; Li Jiang 18km hike day.
2004-01-31
Yangshuo (4) — Fawlty Towers Hotel; Bike to the moon rock day

February 2004

2004-02-01
Yangshuo (5) — Fawlty Towers Hotel; Hike to the peak, carve name in the doorway day.
2004-02-02
Yangshuo (6) — Fawlty Towers Hotel;
2004-02-03
Yangshuo (7) — Fawlty Towers Hotel;
2004-02-04
Yangshuo (8) — Fawlty Towers Hotel; Mailed home package from Yanghsuo post office.
2004-02-05
桂 林 → 昆 明 - 2059 - depart Guilin 11:30 arrive Kunming 12:00; Car 15; Berth 13 middle; 263.00元
2004-02-06
Kunming (1) —
2004-02-07
Kunming (2) — Snow day; Muslim quarter.
2004-02-08
Dali (1) — Old Dali Inn #5 Guest House; Day of the terrible freeway-under-construction-bus-ride.
2004-02-09
Dali (2) — Bike ride to the market with Chrito
2004-02-10
Dali (3) — Walk with Linzi along the walls; throw stones in the water.
2004-02-11
Chartoe - Wake up; decide to go; get Linzi; bus to Chartoe; monkey on cage in the roof; nice meal ;)
2004-02-12
Tiger Leaping Gorge
2004-02-13
Lijiang (1) —
2004-02-14
Lijiang (2) —
2004-02-15
Lijiang (3) —
2004-02-16
Lijiang (4) —
2004-02-17
Dali - Mailed home CDs
2004-02-18
Xigua
2004-02-19
Bus — (Xigua) → 昆 明 - K744 - Depart Dali 10:10 arrive Kunming; Car 2; Berth 6 middle; 67.00元
Woke in Hotel with Linzi, took outstanding train Xigua to Kunming; Sleeper bus from Kungming to Sino-Vietnamese border.
Vietnam (21 nights)

February 2004

2004-02-20
Sapa (1) — Leave China; Immigration in Lao Cai; rain; mud; convey of smog belching lorries; jeep to Sapa; Hotel.
2004-02-21
Sapa (2) — Walk about town; hill
2004-02-22
Sapa (3) — Bac Hai Sunday market; Flower H’mong photo shoot.
2004-02-23
Train from Lao Cia to Hanoi.
2004-02-24
Hanoi (1) — Especen Hotel
2004-02-25
Hanoi (2)
2004-02-26
Hanoi (3)
2004-02-27
Halong Bay 30.000₫
2004-02-28
Halong Bay
2004-02-29
Bus from Hanoi to Hue

March 2004

2004-03-01
Hue
2004-03-02
Hoi Ann
2004-03-03
Hoi Ann - Dinner with the Caring Clowns International group. Had dinner with Scotter (Dan) and Duffy (Jed).
2004-03-04
Hoi Ann
2004-03-05
Bus from Hoi Ann to Natrang
2004-03-06
Nha Trang - C30 Hotel
2004-03-07
Nha Trang
2004-03-08
Bus from Na Trang to Ho Chi Min City
2004-03-09
Ho Chi Min City - It-takes-five-working-days-to-extend-your-visa but since-today-is-Tuesday and Friday-is-a-national-holiday you-will-have-to-wait-eight-actual-days scam.
2004-03-10
Ho Chi Min City - Walk down to China Town. :)
2004-03-11
Song Tien - Mekong Delta tour; bus around Mekong Delta; crocodile tour; river tour; hotel.
Cambodia (23 nights)

March 2004

2004-03-12
Phnom Pen (1) — Leave Vietnam @ Song Tien; pay $2.50 for two-day overstay visa fee; Immigration in Khaorm Sam Nor Kaoh Roka; boat for one-hour; bus to Phnom Pen, stay at Number 9 Guesthouse
2004-03-13
Phnom Pen (2) — Number 9 Guesthouse
2004-03-14
Phnom Pen (3) — Number 9 Guesthouse, Sunday Roast at the Mellow Yellow with Ryan, including roast pork, roast potatoses, mashed pumpkin & carrot, mashed potato, greens n’ gravy, apple stuffing (150/pp) National Museum of Cambodia $US 3; Heart of Darkness.
2004-03-15
Phnom Pen (4) — Number 9 Guesthouse
2004-03-16
Phnom Pen (5) — Number 9 Guesthouse
2004-03-17
Phnom Pen (6) — Number 9 Guesthouse
2004-03-18
Phnom Pen (7) — Number 9 Guesthouse, Tuol Sleng and the Killing Fields tour
2004-03-19
Sinanokville - Bus ride to the beach
2004-03-20
Sinanokville - Day at the beach
2004-03-21
Kampot - Bokor National Park
2004-03-22
Phnom Pen (8) — Number 9 Guesthouse
2004-03-23
Phnom Pen (9) — Number 9 Guesthouse
2004-03-24
Kratié - Mini-van ride to Kratie, dolphin tour
2004-03-25
Senmonorom (1) — Blue pick-up truck ride to Mondulkiri
2004-03-26
Elephant Trek - Sleep in straw hut
2004-03-27
Senmonorom (2) — Interesting guesthouse with music blarring at 4am
2004-03-28
Phnom Pen (10) — Red pick-up ride with 27 people back to Phnom Pen
2004-03-29
Siem Reap (1) — I take the Neak Krorhorm Travel & Tours bus to Siem Reap; drop-off downtown and acousted by touts; go to mulitple guesthouse; finally find Orchidae Guest House; relax
2004-03-30
Siem Reap (2) — Bike to Angkor Wat, buy permit, tour all day, stay at Orchidae Guest House
2004-03-31
Siem Reap (3) — Bike to Angkor Wat at dawn, tour all day, stay at Orchidae Guest House

April 2004

2004-04-01
Siem Reap (4) —Bike to Angkor Wat at dawn, tour all day, stay at Orchidae Guest House ;)
2004-04-02
Siem Reap (5) — Walk around town shopping
2004-04-03
Siem Reap (6) — Wake early ;), take minibus to Thailand
Thailand (27 nights)

April 2004

2004-04-04
Bangkok (1) — Wake in Siem Reap at 6:00A; catch bus to border; bump bump; lunch fried noodles; leave Cambodia @ Poi Pet; enter Thailand with a smile but wait in immigration line for two sweaty hours while lugging my bronze apsara and other goods; catch A/C VIP bus to Bangkok; run in to the Swedes on my first walk down Khao San Road, drop my stuff off at a random B150/night guesthouse; procede to Phat Pong.
2004-04-05
Bus - Busy day in Bangkok; shipping stuff home; all-night bus to Ko Tao with tall, annoying Israeli who wouldn’t let me put my seat back, but he had his back.
2004-04-06
Ko Tao (1)
2004-04-07
Ko Tao (2)
2004-04-08
Ko Tao (3) — My birthday; snorkeling with sharks at Shark Bay and then a huge dinner
ac bar
ko tao’s original&best
on sairee beach
thursday 08 april ’04
“sound”
r&b,hip hop,funky house
hard house
2004-04-09
Ko Tao (4) — Diving with Ban’s Diving Resort. 1. Chumpon (multi-level to 28 meters, 42 minutes; saw batfish, triggerfish, anemony, barecuda); 2. Twins Coastal (15 meters, 53 minutes; saw blowfish male and female, triggerfish)
2004-04-10
Ko Tao (5)
2004-04-11
Ko Tao (6)
2004-04-12
Bangkok (2) — pre-Songkran
2004-04-13
Bangkok (3) — Songkran (Thai New Year water festival.)
2004-04-14
Bangkok (4) — Songkran
2004-04-15
Bangkok (5) — Songkran
2004-04-16
Bangkok (6) — Chill day
2004-04-17
Bangkok (7) — Ayuthaya with Fon
2004-04-18
Bangkok (8)
2004-04-19
Bangkok (9)
2004-04-20
Bangkok (10)
2004-04-21
Bangkok (11) — Paul Oakenfold - April 21, 2004, Narcissus Club, Bangkok, Thailand (WED)
2004-04-22
Bangkok (12)
2004-04-23
Bangkok (13)
2004-04-24
Bangkok (14)
2004-04-25
Bangkok (15)
2004-04-26
Bangkok (16)
2004-04-27
Bangkok (17)
2004-04-28
Krabi - Ton Sai bungalows
2004-04-29
Krabi - Ton Sai bungalows; read Michael Chricton.
2004-04-30
Su-ngai Kolok — Mini-van from Ao Nang to Hat Yai; mini-van to border and walk around. Good night market.
Malaysia (day trip visa run)

May 2004

2004-05-01
Day trip to Malaysia to renew visa; bus down to Kota Baru; no rooms available on the Perhentian Islands; go back to border
Thailand (11 nights)
2004-05-01
Hat Yai - Catch van from border to Hat Yai; great seafood noodle soup on the street with the Mayalsian Chinese; beers with the Aussie and American girls.
2004-05-02
Ko Pha-Ngan (1) — Wake up and catch bus to Surat Thani; miss bus to boat; catch different bus to ferry; ferry to Ko Pha-Ngan; meet Chris; have Mexican food; walk around Hat Rin.
2004-05-03
Ko Pha-Ngan (2) — Fullmoon party night
2004-05-04
Ko Pha-Ngan (3) — Recovery
2004-05-05
Ko Pha-Ngan (1) — Bottle Beach
2004-05-06
Ko Pha-Ngan (2) — Bottle Beach
2004-05-07
Ko Samui (1) — Stay at Montien House; Meet Kanoknipa @ Green Mango
2004-05-08
Ko Samui (2) — Montien House; Chris leaves today. Meet Kanoknipa again
2004-05-09
Ko Samui (3) — Montien House; Kanoknipa beach day
2004-05-10
Ko Samui (4) — Montien House; Kanoknipa spends night
2004-05-11
Train - Songtaew to ferry; met Keif; Surat Thani danceclubs; trains station delay until 3:40; met English blokes; sleep.
Malaysia (6 nights)

May 2004

2004-05-12
Penang
2004-05-13
Penang
2004-05-14
Cheong Fatt Tze Heritage Tour 11:00A RM10.00; walk around town; samosas; I leave town at 8:30pm on the all-night Cepat Ekspres bus, seat 8 for RM25; dropped off at 4:40A in Kuala Besut.
2004-05-15
Perhentian
2004-05-16
Perhentian
2004-05-17
Perhentian
Thailand (12 nights)

May 2004

2004-05-18
All-night train — I buy a ticket for State Railways of Thailand train 172, car 5, seat 5, for ฿557. We depart Su-ngai Kolok railway station at 11:30pm on 18พ.ค.47 and head north toward Bangkok. We arrrive to Bangkok Hua Lomphong Railway Station several hours passed the planned arrival time of 8:00am the next morning. This is the train where I met the mysterious Eric Mansfield.
2004-05-19
Bangkok (18)
2004-05-20
Bangkok (19)
2004-05-21
Bangkok (20)
2004-05-22
Bangkok (21) — Bought my BKK- RGN - DAC ticket from Ratt at Vega Trading Co. for 8, 360 Baht
2004-05-23
Kanchanaburi (1)
2004-05-24
Kanchanaburi (2)
2004-05-25
Kanchanaburi (3)
2004-05-26
Bangkok (22)
2004-05-27
Bangkok (23)
2004-05-28
Bangkok (24)
2004-05-29
Bangkok (25) — Mail home T-shirts, film (developed), hat, unsolicated gifts for ฿2,500; evening market with Kanoknipa; bought jewelry at Moko Design for ฿960; go to Baiyoke Tower II for night view over Bangkok
Myanmar (24 nights)

May 2004

2004-05-30
Yangon (1) — Leave Thailand via BKK Airport 500฿; Biman Bangladesh Airlines flight 61 (A300) Bangkok BKK, Thailand to Yangon RNG, Myanmar; Arrive to a rainy and misty Yangon on Sunday at around 4:40P; Immigration; get Swiss Army knife through the baggage claim curtains; Taxi to Okinawa Guest House No.64, 32nd Street, Pabedan, Yangon; Dinner at Okinawa; tea with Fabien.
2004-05-31
Yangon (2) — Okinawa Guest House

June 2004

2004-06-01
Yangon (3) — Shwedagon Pagoda — The Southern Entrance; 1 June, 2004;
Entrance Fee US $5.00.
2004-06-02
Yangon (4) — Glass Factory; walked around town — building’s view— get kicked at out 5pm
2004-06-03
Yangon (5) — Reclining Buddha; Walk around, lunch at lake side hotel; try to email via http://oa.yahoo.com/ -- At the time this was a work around to access the otherwise banned Yahoo! email and portal.
2004-06-04
Bangladeshi embassy visa success - $100 visa for Bangladesh; all-night bus to Mandalay
2004-06-05
Mandalay (1) — Recovery; bike ride around town / river cruise, beer at river
2004-06-06
Mandalay (2) — Tour of monastery; 200-year old teak bridge; stupas. Dinner with Swede doctor and the Alaskan and the 48-year old Austrian who hadn’t had diarrhea since 1985.
2004-06-07
Mandalay (3) — Woke late; read; email; bike; discover Chinese BBQ in ’da bad part o’ town.
2004-06-08
Mandalay (4) — Boat ride to temple, bell, etc., Dinner: Chinese BBQ in DA bad part o’ town; Karioke
2004-06-09
Pyin U Lwin (1) — Truck to Pyin U Lwin
2004-06-10
Pyin U Lwin (2) — Bike: National Kandawgyi Gardens 2,000 KS
2004-06-11
Pyin U Lwin (3) — Waterfall
2004-06-12
Unknown town - Car breakdown day, Mandalay briefly, go down to Soe Moe and buy the bronze elephant opium weights.
No. (496), on 84th Street, near the Mayae Son Won Pagoda, Mandalay - phone 02/70558 - soemoe@mandalay.net.mm
2004-06-13
Bagan (1) — US $10
2004-06-14
Bagan (2) — Ate at the Holiday Restaurant & BBQ, Yarkhinn Thar Road, Nyaung Oo (Bagan). We had Mandalay beer, water, lady finger BBQ, Garlic BBQ, chicken BBQ, sweat & sour potato, fried fish with pineapple, boiled potato with veggies and pork with chilli sauce, all for 6200Ks.
2004-06-15
Bagan (3) — Distant places ride through 4 x 4
2004-06-16
Nyaungshwe (1) — 12-hour minibus to Inlay Lake; Check into Aquarius Guest House, the owner and staff were lovely and the common area allowed for mingling with other guests. A great vibe altogether.
2004-06-17
Nyaungshwe (2) — Boat tour of Inle Lake and villages, bronze and weaving markets. Inle Zone Entrance Fee $3.
2004-06-18
Nyaungshwe (3) — Chill day
2004-06-19
Nyaungshwe (4) — Chill day
2004-06-20
Nyaungshwe (5) — Chill day; bike around town.
2004-06-21
Bus - Bike ride to LP funded dock/ boat: 20 hour bus ride from hell with betel chewing, oil-red spit spewing maniacs.
2004-06-22
Yangon (6) — shopping and fun night with Biman rep and three clubs with the Filipino Band; cute girl.
Bangladesh (6 nights)

June 2004

2004-06-23
Dhaka (1) — Biman Bangladesh Airlines flight 61 on a Fokker F-28-4000, departing Yangon RNG, Myanmar and arriving to Dhaka DAC, Bangladesh; at the airport, I met Jason (the half Chinese, half Puerto Rican cool Marine); went to Marine house; dropped off at Hotel Al Razzaque, 29/1 North South Road, 600m south of Gulistan Crossing. There was a restaurant downstairs called Al Razzak Restaurant আল রাজ্জাক রেস্টুরেন্ট.
2004-06-24
Dhaka (2) — Old Dhaka; ex-pat club night (Thursday).
2004-06-25
Dhaka (3) — Wake late; National Museum.
2004-06-26
Dhaka (4) — I moved to the Hotel Grand Palace International (later called Hotel Baitus Samir International) at 11-12 North South Road (Fulbaria) Dhaka-1100; Parliament with Portuguese architects; dinner and cool walk down night market alley. Withdrew 5,000BDT Bangladeshi Taka from Standard Chartered Bank, Dhaka Main Branch
2004-06-27
Dhaka (5) — Hotel Grand Palace International; Fort day and arches; Hindu Street; Get gassed.
2004-06-28
Dhaka (6) — Hotel Grand Palace International; Last day; find bus ticket; Hindu Street; Banga Bazaar.
India (59 nights)

June 2004

2004-06-29
Kolkata (1) — Hotel Diplomat - Get up at 6; find rickshaw to bus station; Bus leaves at 8:00A to India; ferry on lower Ganges; bus; leave Bangladesh @ Benapole Checkpost; Immigration; Rs100 sweet-money-bribe-to-speed-up-procedures; Hotel Diplomat; Run into Neil, the bro from the Cambodia Elephant trek, beer, bed.
2004-06-30
Kolkata (2) — Hotel Diplomat - Explore town and the market; run into Fabien at lunch at the popular spot; Withdraw RS 11,000 from ICICI Bank, Chowranghee Mansion branch.

July 2004

2004-07-01
Kolkata (3) — Hotel Diplomat - Walked around with Fabien, beggar follows us for 8 blocks, find DHL, walk back via music store, get slides/photos developed, dinner on rooftop.
2004-07-02
Kolkata (4) — Hotel Diplomat - Mailed home souvenirs (tapestry, garments, fabric, basket, curios, handicrafts, photos/slides, and one Myanmar topaz) via DHL for ₨5,372/-; walk to the famous bridge and walk across; take taxi back. The night of the party at the university; hitch a ride back on a lorry at 3:00A.
2004-07-03
Kolkata (5) — Hotel Diplomat - Banyan Tree day.
2004-07-04
Bhodgaya - Train from Kolkata to Bhodgaya (non-A/C; four hours) night temple; no saag paner because electricity fails.
2004-07-05
Varanasi (1) — Rickshaw to Vishnu Rest House. “It’s closed, sir.” “Take me there anyway.”. Mahabodhi Temple Rs.20/-; Train from Bhodgaya to Varanasi (ticketless A/C 3-tier; 6 hours)
2004-07-06
Varanasi (2) — Vishnu Rest House. Meet JG & Michelle in Varanasi; walk about; dead cow with blessings;
2004-07-07
Varanasi (3) — Vishnu Rest House. Fake yoga day with moon salutations;
2004-07-08
Varanasi (4) — Vishnu Rest House
2004-07-09
Train - Varanasi to Delhi (all-night; non-A/C 2nd-class); arrive Agra; tired; walk about.
2004-07-10
Agra (1) — Tour to the lost city.
2004-07-11
Agra (2) — Taj Mahal No. 145135 Rs.500/-; Baby Taj; Agra Fort; talk about being tired; dinner at that great vegetarian.
2004-07-12
Rishikesh (1) — Train hell day; leave Agra with no ticket; go to train station; they say go to the other train station; Train doesn’t leave for hours; bus station; traffic jam; buses ain’t leaving for hours; back to train station; fine on board for not having ticket; drops me off ½ hour outside Delhi; local train to Delhi; the woman hisses at me for standing in the women’s area; get to Delhi; nice train to Rishikesh; meet the Israeli guy I met in Thailand; rickshaw 1; rickshaw 2; rickshaw 3; walk 1 k; hotel.
2004-07-13
Rishikesh (2)
2004-07-14
Rishikesh (3) — Waterfall day
2004-07-15
Rishikesh (4) — Sleep day; Withdraw RS 13,000 from State Bank of India
2004-07-16
Rishikesh (5) — hike day to the other side; hotel under construction with the great view
2004-07-17
Delhi (1) — Richshaw to Haridwar; train to Delhi.
2004-07-18
Delhi (2) — Met Pink, Mike, Kim, Jonathan and Michelle at the restaurant. Developed photos at Delhi Photo Co., 78, Janpath, New Delhi -110001, (Cognot Circus)
2004-07-19
Delhi (3) — Old Delhi day with Jonathan; spice market extravaganza; mosque and minarette; dinner at Kareems; drinks at the bar.
2004-07-20
Bus - probably the day that I went to the Bahai temple; all-night bus to Manalai.
2004-07-21
Manali (1) — Sleep at hotel with great view in Vishisht.
2004-07-22
Manali (2) — Walk through Israeli dominated Old Manali.
2004-07-23
Manali (3) — Hike up Kulu Valley.
2004-07-24
Manali (4) — Castle day and hike with Jonathan up the valley slopes behind our hotel.
2004-07-25
Car - Drive from Manali through the Kulu Valley; breathtaking; sleep with Nepali family in their hut.
2004-07-26
Leh (1) — Arrive in the PM; difficulty finding a nice place to sleep; we finally stay at
2004-07-27
Leh (2) — Check out Leh Day. J&K bank withdraw 12,000₹
2004-07-28
Leh (3) — Sick day; jeep to Gompas
2004-07-29
Leh (4) — Chill day
2004-07-30
Leh (5) — River rafting on the Indus River (wow); meditation;
2004-07-31
Leh (6) — 1st Annual Leh World Music Festival; day 1.

August 2004

2004-08-01
Leh (7) — 1st Annual Leh World Music Festival; day 2.
2004-08-02
Delhi (4) — Jet Airways flight 610 (B734) @ 9:00A Leh, Ladakh to Delhi, India; Mad rush to get on one of two planes; men first; ladies last; Great flight; chill at Brian’s home (the exPat whom Michelle had been staying with); saw Spiderman; Chinese for dinner.
2004-08-03
Delhi (5) — shopping day.
2004-08-04
Orccha (1) — Bhopal Shitabdi - New Delhi to Jansi. Rickshaw to fork in the road; donkey carriage to Orccha; check main temple; Billions of bugs on the hotel roof.
2004-08-05
Orccha (2) — Try to change ticket day. The Dead Person; explore southern temples; swim in the river; 40-year b-day party for Paul, the Kiwi with gray ponytail; food poisoning night.
2004-08-06
Orccha (3) — Continued food poisoning; recovery.
2004-08-07
Train - Punjab Mail from Jhansi to Mumbai.
2004-08-08
Mumbai (1) — Get in at 6:00A; Nice day today; walk around the waterfront; lunch at ; Museum and miniatures; dinner BBQ place; email and digitalize journal notes. Stayed at Apollo Guest House 43/45, Mathurdas Estate Building in Colaba.
2004-08-09
Mumbai (2) — I got hit by a car today. More journal digitalization.
2004-08-10
Train - Mumbai to Goa. Read Memiors of a Geisha.
2004-08-11
Goa (1)
2004-08-12
Goa (2)
2004-08-13
Goa (3)
2004-08-14
Goa (4)
2004-08-15
Goa (5)
2004-08-16
Goa (6)
2004-08-17
Goa (7)
2004-08-18
Cochin (1)
2004-08-19
Cochin (2)
2004-08-20
Cochin (3)
2004-08-21
backwater (1)
2004-08-22
backwaters (2)
2004-08-23
Trivandrum (1) — Bought my Sri Lankan Airlines First Class ticket from Spensers Travel Limited for ₹4970/-.
2004-08-24
Trivandrum (2)
2004-08-25
Trivandrum (3)
2004-08-26
Trivandrum (4) — I take the train to Varkala. We arrive to Varkala Sivagiri railway station about 40 minutes later. I enjoy Varkala in the afternoon and take the train back in the evening.
Sri Lanka (20 nights)

August 2004

2004-08-27
Colombo (1)
2004-08-28
Colombo (2) — Withdraw 20,000 from Commercial Bank of Ceylon
2004-08-29
Colombo (3)
2004-08-30
Ella - Train ride in the observation deck; the sing songs day with Dutch videoing.
2004-08-31
Arugum Bay (1) — Hire a taxi and go to

September 2004

2004-09-01
Arugum Bay (2)
2004-09-02
Arugum Bay (3)
2004-09-03
Arugum Bay (4)
2004-09-04
Arugum Bay (5)
2004-09-05
Arugum Bay (6)
2004-09-06
Arugum Bay (7)
2004-09-07
Arugum Bay (8)
2004-09-08
Arugum Bay (9)
2004-09-09
Arugum Bay (10)
2004-09-10
Arugum Bay (11)
2004-09-11
Colombo (4)
2004-09-12
Colombo (5)
2004-09-13
Kandy - Elephant Orphanage
2004-09-14
Colombo (6) — Sigyria
2004-09-15
Bought ticket to Singapore forLKR 73.075 and I slept on the plane
Singapore (4 nights)

September 2004

2004-09-16
Singapore (1) — Arrive to Singapore, take evening walk
2004-09-17
Singapore (2)  Visit the Singapore Botanic Gardens and the National Orchid Garden
2004-09-18
Singapore (3) — Asian Civilizations Museum and walk along the waterfront
2004-09-19
Singapore (4)
Thailand ( nights)

September 2004

2004-09-20
Bangkok (26) — Fly from Singapore to Bangkok; take taxi from airport to hospital
2004-09-21
Bangkok (27) — Hospital
2004-09-22
Bangkok (28) — Hospital
2004-09-23
Bangkok (29) — Ko San Sawatee Hotel
2004-09-24
Bangkok (30) — Ko San Sawatee Hotel (other with Por); Fon picks me up; cut my knuckle; drive to Pataya; swimming; great dinner; walk around the Go-go bars; dance club; great day!
2004-09-25
Pataya (1) — Another nice day; swimming; walk along the pier; rollercoaster ride; freefall.
2004-09-26
Pataya (2) — Leave back for Bangkok
2004-09-27
Bangkok (31) — Fon - Dinner with Tequila Aunt ;)
2004-09-28
Bangkok (32) — Fon - Dinner with Fon at Ana Garden; Sukhumvit 55 ฿979.05
2004-09-29
Bangkok (33) — Fon - walk about town; meet the tiny one ;)
2004-09-30
Hua Hin (1) — Leave for Hua Hin at 7:00P.
2004-09-31
Hua Hin (2) — Go to Palace of Rama VI.

October 2004

2004-10-01
Bangkok (34) —
2004-10-02
Bangkok (35) —
2004-10-03
Bangkok (36) — Bumrungrad Hospital for ฿9,390
2004-10-04
Bangkok (37) —
2004-10-05
Bangkok (38) —
2004-10-06
Nang Rong - Leave BBK by bus at 10pm and arrive at Nang Rong in the wee hours. I find a guesthouse, wake up the staff and they give me a room. Welcome to Isan
2004-10-07
Kantharalak - Tour Phanom Rung by motorcycle during the day; bus to Kantharalak in the late afternoon and arrange a moto for Prah Wihan the next morning
2004-10-8
Prah Wihan, Cambodia day-trip - 6:00am wake up call for the moto to Prah Wihan/Preah Vihear.
2004-10-09
Ubon - Morning bus to Ubon. Tour the museum, have a great larb, visit the great night market
2004-10-10
Roi Et - Bus to Roi Et
2004-10-11
Roi Et -
2004-10-12
Kohn Kahn - Bus to Kohn Kahn
2004-10-13
Kohn Kahn
2004-10-14
Bangkok (39) — Morning bus to Bangkok
2004-10-15
Bangkok (40) —
2004-10-16
Bangkok (41) — Chatuchak market; withdraw ฿10,000 from Bangkok Bank
2004-10-17
Bangkok (42) —
2004-10-18
Bangkok (43) — Mailed home Buddha from Banglampu Post Office ฿3,200
2004-10-19
Bangkok (44) —
Hong Kong (3 nights)

October 2004

2004-10-20
Hong Kong (1) — Leave BKK 500฿; China Airlines flight 642; 2:40P - 6:35P; arrive Hong Kong; take airport bus to Kowloon; stay at the Man Hing Lung Hotel, Rm F2 14/F, Mirador Mansions, 54-58 Nathan Rd. HK$492.00 for 3 nights.
2004-10-21
Hong Kong (2); visited the Hong Kong Museum of Art
2004-10-22
Hong Kong (3) — Ferry roundtrip HK$35 ; toured the Hong Kong Money Authority center in the International Finance Centre skycrapper; took a bus to the top of Victoria Peak and hiked around for the best views over Hong Kong. Hiked down at dusk down a windy road and then boarded the Peak Tram finicular the rest of the way down. Walked around the bar street and felt alone.
South Korea (10 nights)

October 2004

2004-10-23
Seoul (1) — Arrive PM met Stephania
2004-10-24
Seoul (2) — Gyeongbokgung Palace ₩500 and nearby Deoksugung; N Seoul Tower 엔서울타워
2004-10-25
Seoul (3) — Began my Chinese Visa process today; bar at night.
2004-10-26
Seoul (4) — Korean Folk Village ₩11,000
2004-10-27
Seoul (5) — USA Embassy closed; extra pages in passport fail meltdown in front of USA embassy; they ended up opening the embassy for me.
2004-10-28
Seoul (6) — Changdeokgung Palace Complex and nearby Jongmyo Shrine and tour of the other temples and palaces. The bar night scandal.
2004-10-29
Seoul (7) — Hike up Bukhan Mountain 북한산
2004-10-30
Seoul (8) — Bus over to Bulguksa and tour the Unesco World Heritage temple. At night, we find a local (and what seemed to be expensive for us) hotel, complete with heated floors, which are awesome. We have a nice Korean dinner.
2004-10-31
Seoul (9) — In the morning, we somehow get over to Tongdosa temple and tour the World Heritage site. We have a great dinner, and buy a ticket on the night bus, seat 5, for ₩28,000, and depart the Gyeongju Express Bus Terminal 겅주고속버스터미널 at 11:40pm and arrive to to Seoul in the early morning. It is a VIP bus with a 1, 2 seating configuration with airplane busines class seats.

November 2004

2004-11-01
Seoul (10) — Get visa from Chinese embassy, get boat tix; walk around Seoul at night with Stephania and she unfortunately loses her passport, ID cards, money, etc.
Tian Ren (1 night)

November 2004

2004-11-02
Tian Ren - Morning train to Incheon Port, board Tian Ren. Sailing from Korea to Tianjin, China
China (24 + 7 = 31 nights)

November 2004

2004-11-03
天 津 → 北 京 - 4420 - depart Tianjin 16:28 arrive Beijing; Car 8; Seat 42; 14.00元; withdraw 2,000 from Bank of China
2004-11-04
Beijing (2)
2004-11-05
Beijing (3)
2004-11-06
Beijing (4)
2004-11-07
Beijing (5) — Temple of Heaven 30.00元
2004-11-08
Beijing (6)
2004-11-09
Beijing (7)
2004-11-10
Beijing (8)
2004-11-11
Beijing (9)
2004-11-12
Beijing (10)
2004-11-13
北 京 西平 遥 - 2519 - depart Beijing West 19:43 arrive Pingyao 7:00; Car 12; Berth 13 upper; 131.00元
2004-11-14
Arrive to Pingyao in AM - bought the Pingyao Ancient City ticket for 60RMB
2004-11-15
Second day in Pingyao. 平 遥西 安 All-night train.
2004-11-16
Xi’an - Xi'an Shuyuan Youth Hostel
2004-11-17
Xi’an - Xi'an Shuyuan Youth Hostel
2004-11-18
all-night train
2004-11-19
西 安 → 成 都 - 2119 - depart Xi’an 16:59 arrive Chengdu 8:00; Car 12; Berth 10 middle; 117.00元
2004-11-20
Chengdu (2)
2004-11-21
Chengdu (3)
2004-11-22
Chengdu (4)
2004-11-23
Chengdu (5)
2004-11-24
Leshan Grand Buddha 70.00元
2004-11-25
Chengdu (6) — Giant Pandas; mail home my Chinese stool and other unsolicated gifts ¥283.50; Thanksgiving dinner and hotpot.
2004-11-26
Chengdu (7) — Sichuan Opera - withdraw 2000 from Bank of China
Tibet (7 nights)

November 2004

2004-11-27
Lhasa (1) — Pentoc Hotel - Arrive to Lhasa, take bus into town, have evening walk and acclimate.
2004-11-28
Lhasa (2) — Pentoc Hotel - Walk the Barkhor, pictures of locals, views of Potala, dusk back at Barkhor
2004-11-29
Lhasa (3) — Pentoc Hotel - Go inside Potala Palace, go inside Jokhand temple and on roof. At one point, I eat at the Lhasa Snowland Restaurant a buy a tshirt.
2004-11-30
Lhasa (4) — Pentoc Hotel - Ride bikes out to the Sera Monastery

December 2004

2004-12-01
Shigatse
2004-12-02
Morning in Shigatse
2004-12-03
Mt Everest. Amazing! Exit China at Zhangmezhen border crossing
Nepal (17 nights)

December 2004

2004-12-04
Kathmandu (1) - Enter Nepal at Tatopani border crossing. Hire a driver to take me to Kathmandu. We take an excellent drive down, down, down the mountains, along the side of a mountain, stopping ooccasionally for pictures, and into the Kathmandu valley.
2004-12-05
Kathmandu (2) -
2004-12-06
Kathmandu (3) -
2004-12-07
Kathmandu (4) - Tour Swayambhunath monkey temple, Durbar Square
2004-12-08
Kathmandu (5) - Durbar Square and walk to Patan
2004-12-09
Kathmandu (6) -
2004-12-10
Kathmandu (7) -
2004-12-11
Pokhara (1) - Half-day bus to Pokhara
2004-12-12
Pokhara (2) -
2004-12-13
Pokhara (3) -
2004-12-14
Pokhara (4) -
2004-12-15
Pokhara (5) -
2004-12-16
Royal Chitwan National Park (1) - Long bus ride to Royal Chitwan
2004-12-17
Royal Chitwan National Park (2) — elephant trek Rs. 500 per person
2004-12-18
Royal Chitwan National Park (3) — Elephant Breeding Center Rs. 15/-
2004-12-19
Kathmandu (8) - Long bus ride back to Kathmandu
2004-12-20
Kathmandu (8) — Tour the Burning ghats; I buy my plane ticket to Bangkok from Hu-Yian Travels & Tours for रु16,400, or $230 USD. Leave N. Rs. ₨1100/-
Thailand (31 nights)

December 2004

2004-12-21
Bangkok (45) — I take the Thonburi Bus Service from BKK Don Muang International Airport to Sukhimvit 15.
2004-12-22
Bangkok (46) —
2004-12-23
Bangkok (47) —
2004-12-24
Bangkok (48) —
2004-12-25
Bangkok (49) —
2004-12-26
Bangkok (50) — Today was the day of the dreadful 2004 Indian Ocean earthquake and tsunami
2004-12-27
Bangkok (51) — Developed slides from IQ lab ฿3,113.70. Mailed developed photos, slides ฿1,300.
2004-12-28
Bangkok (52) —
2004-12-29
Bangkok (53) — Nakhon Pathom, Thailand
2004-12-30
Bangkok (54) — Ancient Siam, Samut Prakan, Thailand
2004-12-31
Bangkok (55) — New Year’s Eve with Fon and the gang at the Grand Palace giving respect to the Tsunami victims

January 2005

2005-01-01
Bangkok (56) —
2005-01-02
Bangkok (57) —
2005-01-03
Bangkok (58) — Withdraw ฿10,000 from Bank of Asia.
2005-01-04
Chiang Mai (1)
2005-01-05
Trek with Chiang Mai Five Stars Tour 1,800฿; left 9:30am.
2005-01-06
Trek - Elephant riding, bamboo raft, waterfall, hill tribes
2005-01-07
Chiang Mai
2005-01-08
Chiang Mai
2005-01-09
Chiang Rai ?
2005-01-10
Chiang Rai - Visa run
2005-01-11
Chiang Rai
2005-01-12
Pai - Yawning Field Guest House
2005-01-13
Pai - Yawning Field Guest House - Rented the motorbike for ฿140 per day.
2005-01-14
Pai - Yawning Field Guest House
2005-01-15
Pai - Yawning Field Guest House
2005-01-16
Pai - Yawning Field Guest House
2005-01-17
Pai - Yawning Field Guest House
2005-01-18
Pai - Yawning Field Guest House
2005-01-19
Mae Sai
Myanmar (day trip visa run)
2005-01-20
Woke in Mae Sai. Tachileik border crossing and visa renew- Paid 200฿ for one-day late exit fee
Thailand (30 nights)
2005-01-20
All-night bus ride with VIP 18-seater bus to Bangkok. Cashed Traveler's Checks at Siam Commercial Bank; 1usd = 38.36฿
2005-01-21
Bangkok (58) — Rest day; lunch with Maew at Isan place
2005-01-22
Bangkok (59) — Went shopping at Central Chidlom for shoes for the reception with Fon and Mae, Bought some shoes.
2005-01-23
Bangkok (60) — Tam and Chris Wedding Reception — Four Seasons Bangkok
Featuring deep-fried shrimp balls; fried fish maw with bean sprouts; crab meat; fried scallops with asparagus; braised superior shark’s fin soup; barbecued suckling pig; braised sliced abalone with sea cucumber; deep-fried prawns with asaragus; steamed sea bass with black bean sauce; fried egg noodles with shredded chicken; fried pork with pepper and garlic sesame dumplings with ginger scented syrup. Golly that was good!
2005-01-24
Bangkok (61) — Lunch with Maew at the Mexican place
2005-01-25
Bangkok (62) — Lunch with Maew @ Thai place with bad food; walk around Soi 33 area
2005-01-26
Bangkok (63) — Lunch with Maew
2005-01-27
Bangkok (64) — Lunch with Maew at Isan place
2005-01-28
Bangkok (65) — Lunch with Maew at Isan place
2005-01-29
Bangkok (66) —
2005-01-30
Bangkok (67) —
2005-01-31
Bangkok (68) —

February 2005

2005-02-01
Ko Chang (1) — Woke in Bangkok, took bus and boat to Ko Chang, met by Bum at the pier
2005-02-02
Ko Chang (2) —
2005-02-03
Ko Chang (3) — Boat ride, sleep on boat
2005-02-04
Ko Chang (4) — Boat ride, Koh Mak
2005-02-05
Ko Chang (5) — Read, swim, hike, dinner @ Swede place
2005-02-06
Ko Chang (6) —
2005-02-07
Bangkok (69) — Bus from Ko Chang, meet Canadians, great Trat night market
2005-02-08
Bangkok (70) — Lunch with Maew at Isan place; no sausage, 2 pork dishes
2005-02-09
Bangkok (71) — Lunch with Maew @ Isan place; IQ Lab slide processing for ฿385.20. Meet Steve & Kat from Nepal on Khao San Road and take them to pussy show @ Patpong.
2005-02-10
Bangkok (72) — Lunch with Maew at Japanese place. Africa failure, decide I can't make a trip to Malawi to visit Todd. See Steve & Kat; Chinese New Year in Chinatown with the Canadians
2005-02-11
Bangkok (73) — Lunch at the Italian place with Maew, late pizza; dinner with Stacey @ riverside restaurant; Thai massage
2005-02-12
Bangkok (74) — Wake up at Fon’s place, read, wash dogs, market, buy candles, bike around park, Khao San coffee shop, orange cake, Maew’s sleep
2005-02-13
Bangkok (75) — LA Mansion morning, rice soup, swimming pool; Watched Kung Fu Hustle at theatre in Siam Square
2005-02-14
Bangkok (76) — Lunch with Maew at Siam Society Coffee Shop, Suk 21 (tuna salad and watermellon freeze.) Shop at Central, subway to Silom. I walk to the train station after getting lost, stuck in traffic and stressed. I buy a ticket for State Railways of Thailand special express train 13, car 10, seat 15, upper bunk, for ฿671. We depart Bangkok Hua Lomphong Railway Station at 7:40pm and head north. We arrive to Chiang Mai railway station at 8:55am the next day.
2005-02-15
Nan (1) — Wake @ 4:00a on train, train delayed, rice porrage with rice banana leaves (blue/white rice), funky bus to Nan. Find Nan Guesthouse and take upstairs room; walk about, rent moto, temple 2ks passed the bridge, ride around fields and riverside; night market, coconut icecream and fried noodles seafood, computer, sleep
2005-02-16
Nan (2) — Museum and saw many buddhas
2005-02-17
Chiang Rai — All day bus from Nan to Chiang Rai
2005-02-18
Chiang Rai — Wake at 8:30, snooze to 9:30a. 1.5 hour slow orange country bus to Chiang Saen. Noodle soup w/sliced roast pork. Songthaew to Golden Triangle, photo @ sign, walk along Mekong to giant Buddha, buy hat, hitch ride on motorcycle with Dutch guy named Arian back to Chiang Saen, bus to Chiang Rai, meet Stacey at the airport, night market, beer and yam woonsen, cards @ tweeter bar.
Myanmar (3 nights)

February 2005

2005-02-19
Kentung - Wake up in Chiang Rai. Took a songthaew to the bus station for a bus to Mae Sai. Border, permit stamp for $10 USD and crossed into Myanmar. Hired a driver in a white Toyota stationwagon to drive us to Kentung.
2005-02-20
Kentung
2005-02-21
Kentung
Thailand (20 nights)

February 2005

2005-02-22
Take a taxi back to the border and cross into Thailand. I pull ฿10,000 from Siam Commercial Bank. I am not sure where I stay this evening.
2005-02-23
Sukhothai town — I take a bus and arrive to Sukothai town and take an evening walk. They are showing an outdoor movie in the public square. The projector is a monstrosity with a powerful light that attracts insects. On my way back to my guesthouse, I am accosted by a dog who won’t let me pass the public road. Finally I just have to push through and ignore the mutt.
2005-02-24
Sukhothai town — I tour Sukhothai in the morning, head back to my hotel and then travel north to Si Satchanalai Historical Park. I take a bike and tour. When I leave, I stand on the side of the road to wave down a bus back to Sukhothai town. In the evening I wander around town and find a great biker bar.
2005-02-25
Phitsanulok — I travel east to Phitsanulok and spend the evening there.
2005-02-26
Bangkok (77)— I buy a ticket for State Railways of Thailand rapid train 106, car 3, seat 37, for ฿269. We depart Phitsanulok railway station at 9:03am and arrive to Bangkok Hua Lomphong Railway Station at 3:40pm.
2005-02-27
Bangkok (78) —
2005-02-28
Bangkok (79) —

March 2005

2005-03-01
Bangkok (80) — Slide processing at IQ lab ฿577.80
2005-03-02
All-night train: depart Bangkok arrive Surat Thani
2005-03-03
Ko Phi-Phi; stayed at Andaman Beach Resort
2005-03-04
Ko Phi-Phi
2005-03-05
Krabi
2005-03-06
Krabi
2005-03-07
Krabi - Hired a Honda moto for ฿150, rode around Krabi, went to the
2005-03-08
All-night train — I buy a ticket for State Railways of Thailand special express train 38; car 2; seat 24, lower bunk, for ฿1,179. We depart Surat Thani railway station at 11:26pm and head north toward Bangkok. We arrive to Bangkok Hua Lomphong Railway Station the next day, two hours passed the planned arrival time of 9:45am.
2005-03-09
Bangkok (81) —
2005-03-10
Bangkok (82) — Bumrumgrad for ฿2,500
2005-03-11
Hua Hin
2005-03-12
Hua Hin - Withdraw ฿6,000 from Siam Commercial Bank
2005-03-13
Bangkok (83) —

March 2005

2005-03-14
Bangkok - Mailed home last items ฿2,650. Leave BKK Donmuang Intl Airport fee 500฿; China Airlines; Los Angeles.
local_airport