Traditional building, Şəki, Azerbaijan — May 24, 2019

A month ago I couldn’t even pronounce it’s name, let alone ponder a visit. But now I find myself in Azerbaijan, the Land of Fire.


Stone architecture of Lahıc, Azerbaijan — May 25, 2019

This village is 30 minutes up a windy mountain road and is made entirely of stones. I can’t fathom how they fit the rocks together just right.


Juma Mosque, Shamakhi, Azerbaijan — May 26, 2019

I lined up the massive chandelier exactly in the center of the main domed ceiling.


Flame Towers, Baku, Azerbaijan — May 26, 2019

These towers, the modern built on top of the ancient... the world is ever changing. 


Flame Towers illuminated, Baku, Azerbaijan — May 26, 2019

Azerbaijan 2019 Journal

Friday, May 24 — Sheki


Saturday, May 25 — Baku

We drive to Baku and check into the Sultan Inn Boutique Hotel around dusk. We are eager to explore the city and drop our bags and head to the Baku Boulevard, a promenade the runs along the Caspian Sea. It is my first time at the Caspian Sea and Instgram beckons. There is a huge party going on and we pass security and enter. A DJ is blasting dance music. The party is in honor of the upcoming 2019 UEFA Europa League Final English sides Chelsea and Arsenal. We soon get anxious and continue our walk north along the Boulevard. Eventually we walk back into town to the shopping district. The buildings remind me of Paris and even the street signs are identical to those found in France. I soon learn the m surprised to see how much the builhe shopping district looks like Paris. I am in awe. We walk around for a few hours and head back to our hotel in the old city. On the way we stop at Cay Bagi 145 (Tea Garden 145) for an expertly-made hookah and desert. The charcoal boy continually replaces our charcoal. We spend an our enjoying the old-town charm before we head back to our room. Back in our room, the Flame Towers are illuminated in the distance in hues of red, green and blue.

Sunday, May 26 — Baku

We enjoy a rooftop breakfast at our hotel. We walk to the Four Seasons for a quick visit. We take a taxi to the Heydar Aliyev Center. The out-of-box design and spaces inside are unique and create new rules of urban design. We take a taxi to the Taza Bazaar and walk around until we find a chap named Akram in stall 247, as suggested by my guide. We nervously go inside; it is a nice office. The attendand turns on the AC and offers us tea and Russian candy. We sample beluga and sturgeon caviar and decide to buy the more expensive beluga. I am sure it is farm-raised as to not futher endanger the wild fish. The shop attendant seals the caviar jar, which sort of seems a bit odd considering the environment is not factory sterile, but he assures me all is ok. He than thoroughly wraps the caviar jar in fake ice and bags. He tells me it will indeed last the 24-hour flight home. I am reluctant, having absolutely zero expericne in caviar shelf life, to believe these fresh fish eggs will still be fresh after a flight half-way across the world, but I have to take his word for it. We walk back to our hotel.

azerbaijan caviar

Monday, May 27 — In-flight