Saturday, Mar 29 — Ashgabat
My Turkmenistan Airlines T5 642, Boeing 777-200LR EZ-A779 arrived to Ashgabat International Airport on time at 9:50am. Nearly the entire plane was transferring through to Europe, so I went through immigration on my own, took my covid test for $31, then customs, and met Murad, my guide and driver.
We visited the Turkmen Carpet Museum, housed in a wonderfully ornate building that reflects traditional Turkmen design in a contemporary architectural form. Its façade is clad in gleaming white marble, crowned with stylized rooflines and intricate geometric motifs inspired by carpet patterns themselves. Inside, the museum showcases a dazzling collection of handwoven carpets, including centuries-old tribal pieces, Soviet-era political rugs featuring Lenin and wheat sheaves, and the world's largest handwoven carpet—a masterpiece of scale and symmetry. The museum not only celebrates Turkmenistan’s most iconic cultural export but also preserves the symbolism and artistry of each tribe’s weaving tradition.
We also explored some remarkable examples of Soviet-era architecture still standing in central Ashgabat. Two highlights included the Mekan Palace of the Ashgabat City Administration, whose rooftop is adorned with bold socialist-realist bas-reliefs and colorful mosaic panels celebrating labor, unity, and industrial progress; and the monumental Central State Archive of Political Documents, with its immense stone façade of carved workers, intellectuals, and revolutionaries, framed by intricate carpet-like patterns—a dramatic fusion of Soviet ideology and Turkmen aesthetics.
We then stopped by the Monument to V. I. Lenin (Памятник В. И. Ленину)—the last remaining statue of Lenin in all of Turkmenistan. It stands atop a striking pedestal clad in vibrant majolica tiles, a glazed ceramic that replicates traditional Turkmen carpet motifs. The base is composed of five vertical blocks, each symbolizing one of the five major regions (velayats) of Turkmenistan—Ahal, Balkan, Dashoguz, Lebap, and Mary—linking Soviet iconography with indigenous artistry. This fusion makes the monument not just a political relic, but a powerful reflection of Turkmenistan’s layered identity.
We transferred to the Diwan Hotel and I checked into garden‑view room #321. Foreign guests aren’t permitted exterior-facing rooms overlooking Oguzhan Palace and the Ministry of Defence across the roundabout, so I had a lush, private garden vista instead. The hotel itself is a recently renovated, upscale gem in the heart of Ashgabat, clad in gleaming white marble and known for its ornate, over-the-top décor. The grounds are magnificently landscaped, with fountains and sculpted greenery, and the garden is simply breathtaking. Inside, I explored the hammam and enjoyed a swim in the pool, both exuding luxury and calm. Near the pool lounged a group of sharply dressed, heavyset men who looked like they stepped straight out of a post-Soviet gangster film—think slick hair, dark glasses, and quiet confidence. I would’ve loved to join them for a smoke and a beer, but we didn’t speak the same language. Still, it added a surreal, cinematic touch to an already lavish setting. The long hallway to the exit features marble floors, recessed ceilings, elegantly curtained windows, and carries a subtle, pleasant scent that hints at both opulence and relaxation. It’s the kind of place where every detail—from the decorative lighting to the plush furnishings—speaks of indulgent style and thoughtful design.
Dinner at Ресторан "Berkarar SOLTAN" in the Berkarar Mall. I ordered a green salad with beets, cilantro, corns, olives, cucumber and dill with wonderful dressing and some beef kabab on a plate with sauce. Being a Saturday evening, the place was packed with all locals, all wearing their national dress. I loved it. We then visited Asgabat seyilgahi, aka "Dino park", which was founded in 1890 and one of the oldest parks in Ashgabat. Here too were many locals, going on rides, and walking in the gardens among dinosaur sculptures.
Sunday, Mar 30 — Night train
After a lovely hotel breakfast, we drive to the Oriental bazaar Altyn Asyr, locally known as Gündogar Bazary. We stroll through several of the shaded pavilions of this massive market, browsing stalls filled with clothing, fresh fruits, vegetables, nuts, and bins of Russian candies—just like those you’d find in Eastern European markets in San Francisco or Los Angeles.
Eventually, we make our way to a far corner of the bazaar, where I purchase a beautiful Turkmen rug for $150 USD—an amount that feels like a bit of a steal. The rug features a classic Teke gul pattern, with deep red tones and repeating octagonal motifs, which I later learn is emblematic of the Teke tribe, the most prominent tribal group in Turkmenistan. My guide explains that the rug was woven in Baharden, a district in the Ahal Region, making it both a geographically local and tribally significant piece—Teke in style, Baharden in origin.
As we speak with the seller, my guide translates everything she says—including, amusingly, her comment in Turkmen that he’s welcome to tack on a commission. I find it both funny and endearing that he translates even this behind-the-scenes aside with complete honesty.
For lunch we visit Tagamcy cafe ( 37°56'30.2"N 58°23'31.7"E ) and grab some meat pies, which are so tasty.
We head to Wokzal, Ashgabat’s grand railway station, where I board Train 606 to Türkmenbaşy, in car 7, berths 9–12. I instantly notice the carpet on the train is the same Turkmen rug style I’ve been seeing all over the country. I love it. The train departs right on time at 5:40 PM. By my guide’s design, I have the entire compartment to myself. Not long after departure, the conductor asks if I’d be willing to share my room—but the potential passengers have a heavy cough, and I politely decline. I really don’t want to catch anything. I settle in, eat a light dinner on board, and meet a few curious locals. While there’s a language barrier, a college-aged woman kindly steps in to translate, making for a warm and memorable exchange. We take a few photos together, and then it’s time to rest as the train rolls on through the night.
Monday, Mar 31 — Caspian & Yangykala
Nice morning train ride and we arrive to Turkmenbashi railway station at 8:02am.
Cappuccino and fruit bowl at Aladdin Cafe, which featured nice record players, LPs and neat art. Next door, we visit a sculpture dedicated to Dovletmammed Azady (1700-1760), a highly revered Turkmen poet and scholar.
We visited the Japanese POW monument and walked around the tombs
We visit the AGA Market and shop for our upcoming trip to Yangakala Canyon. The shop is full of sodas, bulk cookies and waffers, bins and bins of Russian-style candies, bottles of plum, apple, pear, apricot and berry compote, fresh fruit, bulk pickles (including kimchi), and mineral waters. Of course we I pick Borjomi, and Essentuki No. 4, which tastes like tears.
We drive to the Awaza taxi stand, hop into a cab, and head toward the beach. After a short while, the road is unexpectedly blocked—we're told that the former president, the current leader’s father, is in the area, and no one is allowed to pass. So we return to the taxi stand, wait a while, and try again. This time, we make it through to Awaza, passing a series of massive hotels along the way: the Hotel Serdar, Berkarar, Merdana Hotel, Seyrana, and the Gami Hotel. The entire area looks nearly deserted, but it’s off-season—and a Monday. We’re dropped off at the Hazar Hotel and step into the lobby. Like every hotel here, it’s lavish, mostly empty, and strangely serene. Of course, I wish we had more time to explore, but instead we walk through the lobby and out to the beach on the Caspian Sea, where I begin contemplating a swim.
I finally swam in the Caspian Sea. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again—getting to the Caspian, as an American, is no easy feat. That said, by far the easiest gateway is probably Baku, Azerbaijan, but you likely wouldn’t want to swim there—the water is polluted, frigid, and the lack of stair access doesn’t exactly inspire confidence. Here in Turkmenistan, the best spot is Awaza. But reaching it took three flights, an all-night train ride, and a taxi—only to find the beach closed for an official function. Luckily, we tried again after lunch and finally got in. Awaza boasts a rare, crystal-clear stretch of the Caspian where you can actually swim. In late March, I was absolutely the only person in the water. And since foreigners aren’t allowed to stay at the lavish beachfront resorts, it had to be a day trip. But still—I finally swam in the Caspian Sea!
Lunch at Tolkun Restaurant, sit on the pleasant terrace overlooking the Caspian Sea, and I try some tomato soup, sturgeon.
We chat about other times to visit, and early November is good time to travel in Turkmenistan. Fruit, low season, good weather.
We drive to Yangakala Canyon. The road is desolate, and we pass some Soviet-era bus stops. We arrive, set up camp and Murad made bbq chicken, eggplant, tomato and potato for dinner, and enjoy the complete solitude.
Tuesday, April 1 — Nokhur homes stay
I awake in the morning and we have a nice breakfast of immitation caviar, farmers cheese, bread, passionfruit (from Thailand) and coffee.
Visit small town called Komsomol
Balkan Velayat Central Mosque and flag photos
Lunch at Кафе Uly Balkan; I order a hearty soup and Greek salad.
Bereket town
Drive to Nokur, visit the tea market, get car washed, take a walk along the road. Check into our wonderful homestay. Amazing soup dinner.
Wednesday, April 2 — Ashgabat
Leave Nokhur
Akhal-Teke horses, camel and baby camel, guinea fowl experience.
"Тропа здоровья" Walk of Health hike up the hill
Drive along Bitaraplyk Saýoly (also known as Bitarap Turkmenistan Avenue), one of Ashgabat’s grand boulevards lined with modern, white-marble and glass government edifices. The tower stands right on this major thoroughfare in the city center. Ashgabat features numerous themed buildings—such as the Bakery Building (Çörek fabrika), the Dairy (Milk) Building (Süýt fabrika), and the Meat Processing Building (Et fabrika)—adorned with official signage and decorative motifs. However, most are not used for their intended purposes. Instead, they serve symbolic roles, remain empty, or are repurposed as offices or event spaces. This reflects the city's ambitious—and often surreal—urban strategy of constructing grand façades, even when the interiors go largely unused.
Check into room 1310 of the Archabil Hotel
Dinner on the rooftop terrace of CentralPark restaurant ( 37°53'32.2"N 58°22'58.8"E ) in the Altyn Asyr Shopping Center in Independence Park. Excellent sweeping views of Ashgabat and a glimpse of local, affluent life. I had a nice steak.
Evening walk along Archabil highway
Thursday, April 3 — Dravaza
Breakfast and check out of hotel
Visit Constitution Monument
We drive down Archabil Highway, passing one grand white marble building after another. Among them are the striking Ministry of Foreign Affairs, crowned with a large blue globe, and the precisely shaped Türkmenistanyñ Bilim Ministirligi (Ministry of Education).
Our next stop is the Alem Center, where we take a ride on the indoor Ferris wheel. Opened to the public on May 18, 2012, the center features a 57-meter (187 ft) Ferris wheel enclosed in a gleaming glass and white-steel structure atop the building. Known as "Alem", meaning "The Universe", the wheel was recognized by Guinness World Records as the world’s tallest enclosed Ferris wheel at the time of its inauguration.
We drive to Old Nisa World Heritage Site
National Museum of Turkmenistan
We drive around Ashgabat, admiring more unusual architecture, shop and prepare for our trip to Darvaza.
Lunch at Joshgun Palow House
Drive to Darvaza, arrive, check into the straw huts, visit the gas crater during a sandstorm, go back to camp, revisit at night when weather is clear.
Friday, April 4 — Mary
Darvaza dawn viewing--not much sleep this trip
Stop at Erbent villge and see locals making bread; they give us some. So good!
Arrive to Ashgabat and visit the Gulistan Shopping Complex, where I buy a Nike bag for my rug. We also buy some Ukranian-influenced food for dinner for the train, including stuffed cabbage. Yum!
We catch the Ashgabat - Mary train, and take a nice rest during the 6+ hour journey.
We check into the Margush Hotel, room 201, with a small terrace!
Saturday, April 5 — Ashgabat
Breakfast at hotel
We tour Ancient Merv
Askhab Mausoleum, which looks similar to those in Uzbekistan
Tomb of Hodja Yusuf Hamadani, a famed Sufi teacher, who died in 1141
Mausoleum of Sultan Sanjar
Lunch at Kafe Dönerçi ( 37°35'47.3"N 61°49'34.3"E ) in Mary
Abiverd Settlement
Taxi to Ashgabat. We were driving on the highway back from Mary and the taxi driver stopped in the fast line suddenly. I thought it was a speed cop but instead he passed off a charging wire to some guy standing in the center median in the middle of nowhere!
Visit the Türkmenbaşy Ruhy Mosque
Dinner at Ресторан "Berkarar SOLTAN" in the Berkarar Mall.
Visht the Independence Monument
Drive around neon building street with all the pretend shops
Wedding Palace and park
Check into Hotel Mizan and repack my bags for onward journey
Sunday, April 6 — Flight to Dubai
Murad takes me to Saparmurat Turkmenbashy International Airport ASB. I board flydubai FZ 732, seat 9D, and our Boeing 737-8 MAX A6-FKP takes off at 5:20am, heading to Dubai International Airport DXB.